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The adventure of living life off the grid, Isle of Eigg, Scotland

Thursday, July 18

The last couple of days have been a bit of an adventure for us here on Eigg. We’ve certainly learned from first-hand experience how difficult it must be at times to live on an island off the west coast of Scotland and off the grid. We’ve also discovered how harsh the weather conditions can be on Eigg — even in the summer. The island is quite exposed to the wind, which can be difficult to escape when it really starts gusting — given one’s proximity to the ocean from every vantage point. On Wednesday it was quite rainy and windy, which persisted throughout the day. In the morning we walked to the old shop and museum at the center of the island for a nature hike led by a local guide. The guide took us through one of the few forested areas on the island and explained how the people of Eigg have intentionally developed plantations as a source of timber and heating fuel for the local residents — as well as for sale on the mainland of Scotland. We also observed and learned about some of the local birds on the island, which include swallows, hen harriers, short-eared owls, barn owls, and a pair of recent arrivals: sea eagles.

When we returned to the Glebe Barn later in the day, we had no electricity. This was partly due to a fire that had broken out on the island a couple of days before, which had compromised some of the equipment used to provide electricity to the island’s residents. Since there is no fire department on the island, a fire truck had to be sent via ferry from the mainland of Scotland to help contain the fire. Luckily, the local residents had been able to get the fire under control before the fire truck arrived — or things could have been much worse. The manager brought us a generator the next day so that we could use the lights in the evening — as well as shower and recharge some of our devices. We did not venture out much on Thursday because of the persistent wind and rain; but the students had a test to complete and a journal to write about how to find wildness in modern society, so the break from our typical routine of rigorous physical activity came as a welcome distraction.

Sheep are everywhere on Eigg. Often perceived as a blessing by the locals from a cultural, historical and economic point of view, their impact on the environment can be quite devastating since they tend to eat through any new plant growth — laying waste to their surrounding environment. This general ambivalence felt towards sheep is the focus of Richard Conniff’s essay titled “Pastoral Icon or Wooly Menace?” which the students discussed during class this week.

Chris, Bryc, Mariana, Krysztof, and Jenna on the Isle of Eigg

Just a few of the Isle of Eigg’s ubiquitous sheep. These have just been shorn and have been butting heads. What? You don't like my hair cut?

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